Friday, November 7, 2014

New Mexico has been fascinating to me since I was about eight, when I studied Georgia O'Keefe in an art class. The stunning landscapes, the communities of artists, the history...I finally made it, and it is a stunningly beautiful state. I definitely suggest visiting in the fall, because the colors are so vivid.

Back to the important things. New Mexico is known for a unique regional cuisine--and for margaritas. The Shed is a legendary Santa Fe restaurant. While I enjoyed the food, the standout was the agave wine margarita. Agave wine is basically virgin tequila, before it is distilled into hard liquor. The result is smooth and delicious. Fun fact: prior to getting their liquor license, the Shed made agave wine margaritas as a workaround. 

My favorite meal in Santa Fe was breakfast at another local institution, the Pantry. The breakfast burrito with carne adovada was one of the best things I've ever eaten. If I lived in Santa Fe, I would be tempted to eat there every morning.


There were also some great day trips from Santa Fe. The road to Taos is as beautiful as you've heard it is. My favorite was Santorio de Chimayo. Millions of people make the pilgrimage to this National Historic Landmark every year. While I had not heard of it prior to my arrival, it was one of the most beautiful churches I've ever seen. The spirituality is almost tangible...I definitely had the feeling of being on sacred ground. Another must do is Tent Rocks National Monument. These are the cone-shaped rock formations you see in New Mexico tourism ads. I can't adequately describe how breathtakingly beautiful Tent Rocks is. If you get the chance to hike it, please do! 

Finally, what do you do if you arrive to the airport early and still have your rental car? Eat, of course. I had the best chicken in a strip mall a few blocks from the tiny airport. El Rey Del Pollo was some of the most delicious chicken I've ever had. As a Breaking Bad fan, I couldn't help but think of "Los Pollos Hermanos." My husband and I ordered the "medio pollo asado," which consisted of moist and perfectly seasoned chicken, hot tortillas, salsa, a baked potato, two quesadillas, and delicious black beans. All for $12.00, and they deliver! If I lived in Santa Fe, the El Rey De Pollo delivery person would be my new best friend. Oh well...perfect chicken is a good enough reason to go back.


Sunday, October 26, 2014

Napa wine is special to me...it happens to be close to home, but I love what comes out of that region. There are wines to suit every palate, and the Northern California climate produces some of the best grapes in the world. Also, full disclosure--it's what I drink most. I recently ventured out to the Paso Robles wine region, and found some interesting wines. As far as California wine goes, I found the Paso wines to be on par with those in the Santa Barbara wine region, better than those in Temecula, but not quite as good as Napa.

There were a few standouts. One was LXV Wine Lounge. The proprietor, Neeta, is warm and inviting. The vibe is bright and fun, yet comfortable and calming. There was actually a massage therapist on duty when we arrived, so I had to indulge (she was fantastic, by the way). The wines are nice, but the real draw is the spice tasting. Neeta gives guests different spices to taste each different wine with. I'd never seen this approach before, and it really gave me a new perspective. I walked away with a bottle of wine, and a package of spices. I would absolutely return on future trips.



Another bright spot was Eberle Winery. They were very dog friendly, which I love, and offered my little Baron a treat immediately. Eberle has great reds...trust me, I think I tried them all. My favorite was the 2010 Barbera (traditionally produced in Northern Italy). It was smooth and easy, and good enough  for me to grab a few bottles.

I'm still a Napa girl at heart...but it's nice to know that there are other solid wine regions in the state of California. Until next time, Paso...

Friday, October 10, 2014

New Orleans has become something of a second home to me. My husband is from there, and I spend a fair amount of time in the city. During my most recent trip, I had the chance to try some new places. As usual, I was not disappointed. 

Avery's on Tulane just might be my new favorite NOLA lunch spot. For an appetizer, try the fried potato salad...with bacon. No really, it exists and it is incredible! What REALLY blew my mind was the "Pearl River" Po-boy. This massive sandwich consists of fried gulf oysters, roast beef gravy, and bacon (yes, there is a theme developing). It's a crazy combination, but everything comes together beautifully.

I also tried Muriel's Jackson Square for the first time. I'd written it off as a tourist trap until very recently, when I heard good things about it from some locals. It was an early dinner, and I was still really full when our party arrived. I had the turtle soup, which was solid, and a delicious salad with lump crabmeat and avocado. I also sampled the barbeque shrimp--yummy!

I don't know how I missed this gem, but I finally tried Sammy's Food Services and Deli. It is no-nonsense, reasonably priced, amazing food. I had the roast beef po-boy, which is a huge departure for a seafood girl like myself. It was ridiculously good. The roast beef was so juicy...I'm getting a bit misty-eyed just thinking about it.

Finally, I went to Pandora's Snowballs. Not my first time by any means--I've always loved the snowballs at Pandora's, with ice shaved so exquisitely that it's literally like butter. I went several times on this trip. Once with a visiting friend, once with my visiting Dad, and twice on my own. I am not a huge fan of sugar, so I normally go for the more tart-leaning fruit flavors. On my last trip, I decided to go crazy. I got a cotton candy snowball, and I cannot express to you how much it tasted like cotton candy. It was fantastic! I might have a new addiction...

Needless to say, I'm on a bit of a kale and arugula detox diet right now. Until next time, New Orleans.


Tuesday, September 9, 2014

As much as I love traveling, I love finding gems in my own backyard. Recently, I stumbled upon two amazing LA restaurants, and I just had to share.

EMC Seafood and Raw Bar


I love this place. Great decor and a casual-chic atmosphere welcome you inside. The service is fantastic, and the food is even better. I highly suggest starting with raw oysters and the shrimp cocktail. I'm also a big fan of the albacore sashimi, yellowtail ceviche, and tuna tartar (with avocado, always a selling point for me). EMC also has a solid lobster roll, which you can get in a mini version. For the drinkers, there is an extensive beer and wine list, discounted during happy hour.

La Numero Uno Restaurant


This is my favorite new lunch spot. It is a cute, unassuming Mexican-Latin establishment. The salsa is amazing, and the guacamole is perfection. The taco plate is five dollars, with beans and rice. The black beans are some of the best I've ever had. The fish taco was very flavorful, and the chicken enchilada tasted like it had come out of a grandmother's kitchen. La Numero Uno is comfort food at it's best, at a very comforting price. 

Monday, September 1, 2014

You know how the saying goes...when in Rome...my husband and I decided that the last night of our European adventure should be spent in Rome. We hadn't been since college. Brandon's Catholic school past, and our mutual geekiness when it comes to all things historical, led us to the Vatican. We'd missed it the first time, so it seemed like the right thing to do. Let me be completely honest...it was something I could have skipped. It was a hot summer day, and even having purchased tickets in advance, we were shoulder to shoulder the entire time, with thousands of other tourists. There is no air conditioning--just a few strategically placed fans. If it hadn't been peak season, I think it would have been different. There are amazing works of art by masters such as Matisse, the decor is unbelievable, and of course, it is the home of the Sistine Chapel. On the other hand, no matter how beautiful a piece of art is, it's difficult to appreciate it when you are being pushed by thousands of bodies behind yours. I had to recover, quickly, with a cocktail on the rooftop of our hotel.

So...what else to do when in Rome? Paraphrasing the famous quote, act like a Roman. Romans tend to eat a lot of delicious food, and drink copious amounts of wine. My people! I'd made reservations at a pricey, fancy restaurant, but my husband and I had a last minute change of heart. Instead, still dressed for dinner at a five-star restaurant, we stopped at a pizzeria and had the most amazing creation with salmon and capers. We then stopped for gelato, which was dependably good. We next went to a local spot recommended by our taxi driver. We were the only Americans there, which is always a good sign of authenticity. The wait was almost an hour, so we had a glass of wine at the bar next door. When our time came, the food was fantastic and worth the wait. The Roman artichoke appetizer was delicious, with the perfect amounts of olive oil and garlic. The pastas were superb. The wine was sublime. It could not have been a better meal. Before we ducked into our hotel for the night, we made one more stop--at another gelato place. It was just enough to make me fall in love with Rome, all over again. 





There are thousands of islands surrounding the Greek mainland. I only had time to visit three: Mykonos, Santorini, and Crete.

Mykonos


Before arriving, I knew two things about Mykonos--great architecture, and great partying. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it offers so much more...great beaches, gorgeous sunsets, and enchanting winding streets. The best way to see the island is to rent a four-wheeler, which almost everyone does. Champagne flows like water. It is also a celebrity hangout, full of hilarious cliches. Lindsay Lohan sightings, Dolce and Gabanna docking their boat, and the piece de resistance...running into Valentino at a lounge. Mykonos surpassed my expectations. Come for the nightlife, and stay for the steamy days...if you're able to wake up before sunset.





Santorini


Santorini is marketed as one of the most romantic places on the planet. This might be true, but the throngs of summer tourists are a huge detractor. The best way to get away from the most touristy areas is to do a boat trip, which goes to several beaches accessible only by boat. I did, however, thoroughly enjoy the food. One highlight was Ambrosia, located in Oia. The ambiance was great, with stellar views. The wine was excellent. The standout was a salmon tartare with avocado appetizer. It was expertly prepared, with just the right amount of citrus and seasoning. It was perfection. I literally could not stop eating it. I've been craving salmon tartare since, and I haven't had anything stateside that comes close. The shrimp and local fish of the day were both fresh and delicious. The meal was capped by a to die for panna cotta. Santorini was not my favorite island, but I would go back in a heartbeat for a dinner at Ambrosia.




Crete


Crete is a unique island. It's difficult not to fall in love as soon as you land. The Greek people are known for their warmth and friendliness, but the Cretans take it to another level. Everyone warned me that three days there wouldn't be enough...now, I understand why. The food and wine in Crete is superb. My favorite meal was at Erganos, an unassuming family-owned restaurant. The lamb was outstanding. It was at Erganos that I was introduced to Raki, the extremely strong official spirit of Crete. It's common to have a complimentary bottle brought to the table after a meal in Crete. I couldn't handle more than one shot at a time. I fared much better with the wine. While it can be hit or miss in the rest of Greece (the whites tend to be better, in my experience), Crete's climate produces excellent wines. I enjoyed the wineries so much that I forgot to note my favorites, but trust me...in Crete, it's hard to go wrong.


Saturday, August 30, 2014

Greece is, in a word, amazing. There's been a lot of discussion as of  late of whether now is the best time to visit, with the lingering economic crisis. I can emphatically reply yes! It is so rich in culture and history that it would take me several more trips to fully appreciate it, but my eleven days there were a great start.

I was walking with my husband on our first day in Athens, when we got a bit lost. We stopped to ask for directions, and met the nicest Athenians on their way to get gelato. Since we both love gelato, especially in Europe, we decided to follow along. We landed at Cremino, owned by a sweet and really funny older woman, who makes several unique flavors daily in her little shop, the old-fashioned way. I got the pistachio, which was incredible. It was full of pistachios, satisfyingly smooth, and just sweet enough. Our new friends walked us to our restaurant, and we made plans to meet up later that night.

That evening, we had dinner on the rooftop of our hotel, the Grand Bretagne (which by all accounts, lives up to the name). There are amazing views of the Parthenon. We had delicious lamb, and the desserts were outstanding. It's worth visiting, even if for drinks and a photo op. We then met up up with our friends. After getting a bit lost again, we ended up finding them in the coolest district, full of small bars. The drinks were cheap, and they came with snacks (score). Our new friends were personable and hilarious. It was a great way to begin a Greek adventure.

After the obligatory Athens sightseeing, we enjoyed dinner the second night at Lithos, an adorable and tucked-away gem. The wine was good and ridiculously cheap. The calamari and zucchini croquettes were standout appetizers. The fish and lamb mains were also perfectly done. The complimentary fruit platter at the end of the meal, which I came to love during my time in Greece, could not have been sweeter or riper. 






Friday, August 29, 2014

I recently visited Dubrovnik, in the storied nation of Croatia. The famous walled city is as beautiful as it is in photos, and remarkably well-preserved. It's hard to believe that Dubrovnik was the site of warfare just twenty years ago. The people are extremely warm. After a few days exploring the walled city and its charms, I suggest taking a local ferry (an experience in itself)  to one of the many islands surrounding the city. Lopud is about 40 minutes away. It's peaceful and quiet. The walk to the beach is a bit rough, but the views and calm water make up for it. It was a beautiful way to spend the day; swimming, lounging, and eating at the local beach spots. My husband and I made friends on the walk up, and we rented chairs together. After we made our way back to the bay, we had wine at a local cafe, just as the sun was starting to set. It was a perfect day--definitely worth the trip.

I also loved Montenegro. It's about an hour drive from Dubrovnik, yet feels completely unique in it's identity and culture. Bonus: a Montenegro passport stamp! I think my husband wanted to have a Casino Royale moment, but we later found out that not a single scene was actually filmed there...Hollywood. Movie fantasies aside,  the city of Kotor and its beaches are insanely gorgeous. The buildings are as historical as those in Dubrovnik, but Kotor feels undiscovered, without throngs of tourists. There is still room to explore here, but with all of the the press about Montenegro, I don't expect it to last long. The food was superb. We had a fantastic seafood lunch, at a little bistro right on the dock. Honestly, one day didn't feel like enough. If I ever go back to Croatia, Montenegro is also on the itinerary.



Sunday, March 23, 2014

There is very little not to love about St. Lucia. The beaches are phenomenal, the people are gracious, and the vibe is laid back. It was the perfect place for the final leg of our trip.

In the midst of our beach time, my husband and I wanted to experience the natural wonders of the island. We made the drive to Soufriere, first hitting the Pitons, two mountainous volcanic plugs. They are a striking sight, seeming to rise up from the sea. We next went to Sulphur Springs, St. Lucia's famous "drive-in volcano." While it isn't literally drive-in (which was a bit of a letdown), we got pretty close to the base in our little rental car. The smell of sulfur hit us almost immediately. We purchased tickets for a tour of the base of the volcano. The tour wasn't the most informative, but the guide was friendly. The most interesting fact/cautionary tale was his story about Gabriel, a tour guide who suffered serious burns while leading a tour. As a result, visitors are not allowed to go nearly as close to the still active volcano. 


After the tour, we proceeded to the mudbaths, a short walk down the pathway. Along with a busload of tourists and a few locals, we slathered ourselves with mud, warmed by the volcanic activity to a temperature of about 110 degrees. It was surprisingly refreshing, although I'm not sure that I felt the healing properties of the mud, which some locals swear by. 



After rinsing off, we drove a few miles down to a waterfall and natural spring. The spring water was perfection--warm and calm. It was amazing to climb into an actual waterfall. It was a great way to end a day, and conclude our Caribbean adventure.

Wednesday, March 19, 2014

After our Trinidad adventure, we hopped on the short plane to Tobago to detox. It is a gorgeous, serene island. The tranquility is a nice contrast to the frentic pace of Carnival in Trinidad.

Our favorite beach was Pigeon Point. The ocean was an amazing shade of blue, and perfectly warm.



My foodie obsession while in Tobago was curried crab and dumplings. Curry + crab + homemade dumpling to sop up all of the goodness=addictive. When I have free time, I plan on trying out this recipe:

http://www.simplytrinicooking.org/recipe/curry-crab-and-cassava-dumpling/

Or, maybe I'll just find someone in Los Angeles who specializes in curried crab.

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

I recently had the joy of traveling to Trinidad and Tobago for Carnival. Of course, I've done Mardi Gras a few times, and Carnival in the Dominican Republic, but this was an experience like no other. What an amazing cultural experience...the people, the traditions, music. The food was interesting, as well as representative of the rich background of the Trinidadian people.

I will fully admit, I ate a lot of roti. Roti, the delicious Indian bread, is used in Trinidad to refer to an entire entree. Curried chicken, goat, or shrimp, with yummy veggies. It is typically eaten with the hands, except the the all in one "roti wraps" at local fast food restaurants. It was amazing, much better than the versions I'd had when I lived in New York. 

On the other end of the spectrum, Trinidad is famous for bake and shark. Sold in kiosks along Maracas Bay beach, and at restaurants and stands throughout Trinidad and Tobago, it is essentially a sandwich composed of a fried shark fillet inside of a fried dough-like bread. Honestly, I thought it was pretty good. I wouldn't eat it on a regular basis, like I would roti, but it was definitely an experience.

My husband and I wanted to fully participate in carnival, so we attended a fete (party). There were too many a day during the six days we were there to even try to keep up! We chose the cANYAval fete, hosted by Season Nine Project Runway winner and former Miss Universe Anya Ayoung-Chee. We hadn't heard of her prior to attending, but according to the blogosphere, her party was one of the can't miss events. It was not a disappointment. The premium alcohol flowed constantly and freely. The food was delicious and representative of the diversity of the country. We met great people. I would absolutely recommend cANYAval to anyone contemplating a Carnival trip to Trinidad.



We also participated in J'Ouvert, which many call the official opening of Carnival. We joined a J'Ouvert band, Mudders International, which got us shirts, bandanas, and a wristband and plastic cup for drinks. On Carnival Monday, we left our hotel at 2:15 AM. As is the tradition, we then got smeared in mud. Yep, mud. Some groups do paint and chocolate also, and by the end, we were covered in everything. Inconceivably, it was pure fun! We had a blast. We started dancing through the streets along the parade route at about 3:00 AM, and didn't stop until after 10:00. By the way, I'm now addicted to power soca. Look up Machel Montano, you'll thank me! We were drinking the whole way...I don't know how natives do it, because many people headed straight to dance in costume, or "play mas," with their Carnival bands. We went to nap at our hotel.

Carnival Tuesday was all of the madness and fun I expected. The costumes were beautiful, and it was wonderful to see so many people, from all over the world, celebrating together and genuinely having fun.

After all of the craziness, we went to Tobago for some R and R. Look for that blog later this week.

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

I love street food. Granted, I am cautious—I won’t eat just anywhere. My general rule is that a long line means a safe bet. I’ve found that the best food is often not in fancy restaurants, but on the carts in regular neighborhoods.

I recently traveled to Mexico City, otherwise known as street food paradise. I’m going to highlight a couple of standouts, but I have to say that the amount of amazing tacos and quesadillas cooked right on the street was mind-blowing. There is a fantastic seafood stand called El Caguamo, specializing in ceviche. It did not disappoint. There was a delightful shrimp broth to start. The fish and shrimp were flavorful and delicious, and the tostadas perfectly crunchy. It is the first and only street food establishment with waitstaff, at least that I’ve seen. The service was almost as phenomenal as the food.

Equally good was Tostadas de Coyoacan. Located in the Coyoacan market, near the museum and former home of Frida Kahlo, this institution serves up traditional tostadas at breakneck speeds. Seats need to be grabbed quickly, because this place stays packed. For good reason—each tostada was better than the last. Crunchy, warm, and filled to the brim with toppings of your choice. My husband and I tried several, but the mole chicken and the ceviche tostadas were standouts. I’ve been craving them since we returned. I guess I’ll just have to plan another trip…