Saturday, August 30, 2014

Greece is, in a word, amazing. There's been a lot of discussion as of  late of whether now is the best time to visit, with the lingering economic crisis. I can emphatically reply yes! It is so rich in culture and history that it would take me several more trips to fully appreciate it, but my eleven days there were a great start.

I was walking with my husband on our first day in Athens, when we got a bit lost. We stopped to ask for directions, and met the nicest Athenians on their way to get gelato. Since we both love gelato, especially in Europe, we decided to follow along. We landed at Cremino, owned by a sweet and really funny older woman, who makes several unique flavors daily in her little shop, the old-fashioned way. I got the pistachio, which was incredible. It was full of pistachios, satisfyingly smooth, and just sweet enough. Our new friends walked us to our restaurant, and we made plans to meet up later that night.

That evening, we had dinner on the rooftop of our hotel, the Grand Bretagne (which by all accounts, lives up to the name). There are amazing views of the Parthenon. We had delicious lamb, and the desserts were outstanding. It's worth visiting, even if for drinks and a photo op. We then met up up with our friends. After getting a bit lost again, we ended up finding them in the coolest district, full of small bars. The drinks were cheap, and they came with snacks (score). Our new friends were personable and hilarious. It was a great way to begin a Greek adventure.

After the obligatory Athens sightseeing, we enjoyed dinner the second night at Lithos, an adorable and tucked-away gem. The wine was good and ridiculously cheap. The calamari and zucchini croquettes were standout appetizers. The fish and lamb mains were also perfectly done. The complimentary fruit platter at the end of the meal, which I came to love during my time in Greece, could not have been sweeter or riper. 






Friday, August 29, 2014

I recently visited Dubrovnik, in the storied nation of Croatia. The famous walled city is as beautiful as it is in photos, and remarkably well-preserved. It's hard to believe that Dubrovnik was the site of warfare just twenty years ago. The people are extremely warm. After a few days exploring the walled city and its charms, I suggest taking a local ferry (an experience in itself)  to one of the many islands surrounding the city. Lopud is about 40 minutes away. It's peaceful and quiet. The walk to the beach is a bit rough, but the views and calm water make up for it. It was a beautiful way to spend the day; swimming, lounging, and eating at the local beach spots. My husband and I made friends on the walk up, and we rented chairs together. After we made our way back to the bay, we had wine at a local cafe, just as the sun was starting to set. It was a perfect day--definitely worth the trip.

I also loved Montenegro. It's about an hour drive from Dubrovnik, yet feels completely unique in it's identity and culture. Bonus: a Montenegro passport stamp! I think my husband wanted to have a Casino Royale moment, but we later found out that not a single scene was actually filmed there...Hollywood. Movie fantasies aside,  the city of Kotor and its beaches are insanely gorgeous. The buildings are as historical as those in Dubrovnik, but Kotor feels undiscovered, without throngs of tourists. There is still room to explore here, but with all of the the press about Montenegro, I don't expect it to last long. The food was superb. We had a fantastic seafood lunch, at a little bistro right on the dock. Honestly, one day didn't feel like enough. If I ever go back to Croatia, Montenegro is also on the itinerary.