Cuba is a stunningly beautiful country. Havana is vibrant and alive--and sweltering, even in December. The countryside is lush and green. Varadero is one of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen, with gorgeous blue waters.

The people are warm and exceedingly friendly. I also found them to be surprisingly open about their lives and the Cuban political system.

I wasn't sure what to expect of the food. I had heard from several friends that the food paled in comparison to the Cuban food in Miami. In addition to the best mojitos ever, I thought the food was good--but not as good as Miami I think this is primarily due to lack of access to key ingredients. There were fewer onions and less garlic. Spices and mojo sauce seemed sparse, but we still enjoyed some very good dishes. We tried to avoid the state-run restaurants, where we found the food to be of a lesser quality.

We visited just a few days after Fidel Castro's death. Honestly, most people seemed unfazed by Castro's death. However, there was an increased police presence and a prohibition on alcohol sales and music (yes, music was banned in Cuba) during the week after his death. On the day the prohibition ended, cannon shots rang out every hour. There were 20 cannon shots fired at 7:00 am on the Sunday following his funeral. Internet access is tightly restricted (there are official government wifi spots, and plenty of people selling access to their own hotspots in parks around Havana). Although email and social media is accessible, many other US websites are not. On the day of Castro's funeral, there was a wifi blackout.

Despite the obvious need for more freedoms, reforms in the last few years seem to have had a positive effect. Cuban citizens can own and rent multiple properties, and independent business ownership is encouraged. On the other hand, these developments have created a de facto two class system--there are those in the tourism industry (many of whom have been able to start businesses with money from relatives living abroad) and everyone else. I was most troubled by the government mandated travel limitations. Cubans need government permission to leave their area, even for vacation. The goal is to prevent a mass exodus from the poorer, more rural areas to Havana. A few people explained that poor young men outside Havana often try to join the police force, because it allows them to move to Havana (and stay there). Cuban citizens are able to leave the country for work and short educational exchanges only. I found out that there are ways for those with more money (again, in the tourism industry) to get around these restrictions.

I'd heard about the poverty in Cuba, but its urban areas look like a lot of other poorer Caribbean countries (Dominican Republic comes to mind). In Vinales, the countryside, the standard of living seems to be higher.  While no one is wealthy, except for a few government officials, you do see less open poverty than you do in the United States. I saw more new cars than I expected. I think Americans forget that while we stopped relations with Cuba, other countries continued trading and doing business with them. There are still a lot of classic cars, and the owners take great pride of them. Most of the taxis we rode in were vintage. They were great for photos, but they were loud. 

Ok, that's more than enough social analysis. Now, the food...

I had to start my day with Cuban coffee every morning (either a cafe con leche or a cortadito). My favorite place was the tiny window in our neighborhood, but I also loved the coffee at Cafe el Escorial in Old Havana (priced for tourists though). On a healthier note, the fruits and vegetables were some of the best I've had. There was a great produce market in our neighborhood. We'd go every morning to get fruit, and it was great getting to know the local vendors. Then, there was pan con lechon. These delicious little roast pork sandwiches are so addictive! The sea salt definitely seals the deal. 

Of course, I had to visit the famed Coppelia ice cream parlor in Havana. It is huge, retro, and usually has lines around the block. I loved the colors and the mid-century modern architecture. We actually had it twice...on the same day. There is a smaller soda shop outside the main store. For tourists who don't want to wait in line, the ice cream here is about ten times the price of the ice cream in the main building (about $2.50 USD). The almond flavor was perfection. Once we went inside, we realized what all the locals (and smart tourists) get. Three scoops with toppings for less than a quarter. The cookies on top were delicious! I also loved the peach ice cream.

As a literary geek, I had to visit the Floridita bar. Hemingway's old hangout is definitely a throwback to a different era. Also, the daiquiris are amazing! We were lucky enough to be one of the first people allowed back in, the day the government-imposed mourning period ended. Really, the drinks in Cuba are all fantastic. The mojitos are as good as you would expect. In Vinales, the owner of our case would make me the best mojitos every evening, with mint hand-picked from her garden.

Cuba is truly one of the most interesting places I've ever visited. I hope to go back one day, hopefully when the Cuban people have more rights and freedoms.